After warming up in High Tatras Kejda Ski Team Vol. 1 there had came time for some more exotic destination in 2013 – Lofoten. Lofoten Islands – deep placid fjords, jagged rocky peaks, polar light and great undiscovered potential for extreme skiing – we knew that well thanks to our frequent summer visits of Northern Norway when we were traveling behind the arctic circle because of first ascents in many bigwalls in magnificent northern wilderness. Ski runs from alpine-looking peaks end on sandy beaches! We were sure about that!
North Circle (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
But one unsolved problem was still here: accomodation. It's extremely expensive for czech people in Norway, especially on Lofoten. But having accomodation is necessary in winter even for us.
Our route through the north of Norway (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
Last summer we spent another couple of weeks there and besides climbing we did some exploration focused on searching extreme skiing lines. Then it happened finally! We were already for the third time in village of Kjerkfjord, Moskenesoya, waiting for good weather for our bigwall project. In those days we met family of local fisherman Robert. We visited them for a coffee, like each other probably, and ski trip on Lofoten in winter became a reality! „We will have romantic hut in this remote place surrounded by crazy ski descents from absolutely spectacularly shaped mountains, it's unbelievable!“
Get on a boat and departure to Kjerkfjord (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
Next problem of skiing on Lofoten is snow condition. Lofoten islands are the warmest place on Earth at this latitude, which is determinated by the Gulf stream. And don't forget that you're skiing straight at the sea level. Everything is between 0 – 1150 metres. So it's well worth to wait for as much snow as possible and go there quickly. At March the couloirs become to be well filled by snow and light/dark ration is almost 12 hours. It's best time to go for some steep skiing. But, at March whole snow cover could be melted in couple of days by strong rain and everything is gonne. It is a lottery.
Panoramatic views have just started (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
After two days of nonstop driving from Czech Republic and after 3000 km (last 700 km on snow and ice) we did it. First views on mountains aren't very promising. There isn't as much snow as we hoped for. But basic lines look skiable. We go visit our friends and together with them we catch small ferry to Kjerkfjord in winter ambience.
Central part of the ridge to Segltind (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
First morning is sunny and sky is without any cloud, but because we are not well informed about avalanche situation (Lofoten avalanche service isn't very relevant), we want to go for some easier lines for beginning to check the conditions. As we want to spend here longer time, it's good idea to check it out.
A whale ridge at Segltinden (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
We begin with tour to the inland where we find two 600 metres high peaks with moderate slopes and nice easy powder lines. During hike back to fjord we decide for the first extreme ski descent: north ridge of dominant Segltinden, 750 metres high Yosemite's Half Dome-shaped massive rock growing straight from the sea.
Sunset above Segltinden (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
It's unbelievably panoramatic line where skier rides on „whale's back“ with view on considerable part of island: on the left-hand side, deeply below you is dark water of ocean and on the right-hand side is frozen lake surrounded by mountains. If you're lucky and you're there by sun set and dramatical cloud cover as we were, you'll realize you've really find Magic Islands! This nice passage of descent ends by 200 metres high rock step with system of steep narrow couloirs and ledges angled up to 50° with lot of exposure.
Scheme of ski descend from the North ridge of Segltinden (CLICK TO
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Unfortunately, Lofoten decide to show us their seamy aspects too. It's beginning of couple of days with bad weather. Archipelago is shrouded in fog and dark clouds. Lot of fresh snow is falling down and is transported by strong wind. Small days are here. But is it really small day if you are totally alone in remote snowy fjord with icebergs, in 130 years old wooden fisherman hut behind arctic circle? And if you have clear night and good luck you can observe fleeting beauty of polar light.
Detail of the lower part of ski route from the North ridge of Segltinden
(CLICK TO ENLARGE)
Finally the bad weather is over and we can try next ski adventure. We should be careful because avalanche risk is higher now then before. We decide for tour on Breiflogtinden via west slopes. The reason is that snow on these slopes is often blown away by wind. We climb short couloir on crampons toward ocean side on the mountain and suddenly there's nothing in front of us. 500 metres below us furious ocean's waves are hitting hard the coast line formed by solid rocky walls nad pillars, snow flakes are whirling around us in wild dance and far away behind foreboding dark clouds we can imagine waters of Greenland.
Scheme of ski route through the East slope of Segltinden (CLICK TO
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We continue direction summit. On some places is deep snow and somewhere is moss and grass. Close to summit is rocky ridge crossing the slopes. And behind that ridge is deposited huge amount of fresh snow. We follow some rocks to avoid avalanche danger. At one point it's no more posibble. Crossing of couloir is necessary. I put my ski on. I will be lighter and faster. My plan is crossing it diagonally down on ski.
The beginning of steep part of the ski route from Segltinden (CLICK TO
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I go. Two seconds after everything starts moving! Avalanche!!! Fortunately, I have my ski on feet and some speed and straight in direction of my movement I see a small rock. This is the only chance! All around is floating mass of snow. Stream of snow wants to knock me down like wild river. Binding on one of my ski switch off under pressure of moving snow pack. With buzzing in temples I somehow on one ski reach the rock and hold it as strongly as I can. All around me is rumbling avalanche.
Back at home – Kjerkfjord (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
Then everything falls silent and only my victorious shouting is carrying by wind above see. My partners are allright too. They wans't even snatch by avalanche. My euphoria is cooled down at the moment when I realize that my new ski is gonne, buried somewhere under huge mass of snow. We turn back immediately and with one ski only I'm pretty slow. I'm in bad mood until we enter nice plains above our hut when I finally feel pleasure of being here alive, uninjured together with my friends and I enjoy my new monoski.
Scheme of the ski route through west side of Breiflogtinden (CLICK TO
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Fortunately, I have second pair of ski here so we can continue discovering of Moskenesoya island and its skiing potential. Next day we go around the fjord following coast line and we want to climb and ski Segltinden again, by different way. The opposite side of Segltinden should be safer in terms of avalanche danger. And it really is! We climb safely on firm sastrugi snow with crampons on feet all the way to the summit. Breath-taking panoramic view is true satisfaction: endless blue ocean in perfect harmony with white snowy peaks. And bird-perspective view on our hut near fjord. Between us and hut is 500 metres high granit wall. Ski descent all the way to the see level is end of the unforgettable day.
When the sea freezes and then outflow comes… (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
After some days we go for second try on Breiflogtinden. Somewhere deep in my mind I still have small hope that I'll find my lost ski. Weather and snow condition is much more better for this time and after short time only we are at the point of previous trouble. And… after few seconds… we see the ski! It's there! Yeah, my ski! And victorius scream again, at the same place like couple of days before. How much pleasure could one avalanche make?
Abandoned fishing buildings (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
For this time we succesfully climb to the summit of ,,Breif", gigantic cliff which is defending whole Kjerkfjord against strong northwest wind which is scourging the archipelago. West slopes end in foamy waters of Atlantic Ocean and are almost without snow. But there's shallow couloir filled by snow and we use it for realization of complete ski descent straight to the remote coast. There's no other way to get here except use of boat.
Ascend to Breiflogtinden (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
Suddenly, we hear strange noise. On small rocky island 40 metres from coast is colony of big, fat seals! They're two or three metres long. Seals are jumping to the water and climbing back on rocks. We have so much fun! It's fantastic natural theatre and we feel to be in real Arctic! When I'm talking about fauna, I should mention another original experience from our trip. Cousin of our friend Robert is still working as private profesional fisherman and he invited us on his ship to go for a whole day on see to remove his nets and set them again. We catch 3 tones of fish but despite this fact Hollvar is still surprisingly unsatisfied. We are completely satisfied, me especially thanks to absolutely new perspective of view on Lofoten islands. Smell of fish, swinging of ship, strong frost, and snowy coast – my new image of Norway.
Preparation of the second pair of skis – Dynafit Muztagh Ata (CLICK TO
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Moltbaertinden become the last ski descent of this trip. We tried it many times during our stay but we were forced to turn back everytime because of unstable snow-pack. Finally it's better. It's very special line which is difficult to find anywhere on Earth. You ride on moderate plains on ridge but there are steep rocky walls on both sides of the ridge. Then you follow steep ramp to giant ancient glacier kettle. The descent ends right next to our hut.
Northern Lights over Lofoten (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
During a journey back home we make a skitour in flat mountains around arctic circle and skitour in lake district around Tärnäby to make our northern experience complete. It's already end of March and it's time to go for some extreme skiing to european Alps. Conditions are getting ready right now!
The trip to the beach (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
Summit of Segltinden again (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
Far below us Kjerkfjord (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
Plateau at the summit (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
The more difficult part of the ski downhill (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
Scheme of the ski route through south-east ridge of Moltbaertinden (CLICK TO
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Scheme of the ski route through south-east ridge of Moltbaertinden (CLICK TO
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Again close to sea (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
We are starting for the second attempt to Breiflogtinden (CLICK TO
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Just below the summit (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
Magic Islands (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
The ski descent is the hardest just at the start (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
As majority of the Czechs, we ride to sea! (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
That's simply marvelous (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
Seals (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
Return back, there is the island with seals down (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
We're going fishing (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
We are going back with three tons of fish (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
The proper way to dry fish (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
The last peak – Moltbaertinden (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
Our group from left: Ida-Mari, Hollvar, Robert, ?, ?, Liv, our Vanda, Bjorn
and part of Kejda Ski Team (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
Lofoten (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
Natural fantasy – Lofoten (CLICK TO ENLARGE)
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The article and images were prepared in cooperation with other members of Kejda
Ski Team Jakub Macek and Ondřej Švihálek.
